Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc 1er Cru Vergers Clos St. Marc, 2013, Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot
Bright, pale yellow. Knockout nose combines citrus fruits, peach, mirabelle and powdered stone, complicated by subtle notes of mango, passion fruit and pomegranate.
Extremely rich and tactile, with its sweetness perfectly framed by strong acidity (about 4.5 grams per liter, according to Pillot, vs. 3.5 for the Chevalier-Montrachet). Highly complex flavors of orchard fruits, pomegranate, stone and mint tea show both a red and a green side.
Wonderfully spherical in the mouth, then turns more incisive and ethereal on the back end, finishing with slowly rising perfume and brisk acidity that stimulates the salivary glands.
This reminded me of a fleshier version of the 2010: will it ultimately match that wine for sheer energy? A great premier cru in the making.
Reviewer: Stephen Tanzer, vinousmedia.com